Q&A with Janja, the GOAT climber
Q: Have you tried men's competition route?
A: Yes. After one of IFSC. competition. It was easier than women. :D (Audience clapping and cheering)
Q: Would you ever do Free Solo?
A: No. Even if i am confident i can do it, i would not do it.
Q: Tips for climber to make progress?
A: Find people to climb together. And find someone who climbers better so you can always improve.
Q: As intermediate climber, how to improve?
A: Practice on lower grades constantly and find a harder problem as project. For example, practice on V5 constantly and find a V7 as your project and just practice all the moves. You'll eventually get it.
Q: Do you ever feel scared?
A: I have always been fearless since young. When I climb I am in the zone so i don't feel anything else. Also if you climb to the top you'll not fall. ;)
Q: How much do you train?
A: When I was young, I climbed once a week. To when I was 14 competing for youth, I trained five times a week. Now I train six times a week, 10 hours a day.
Q: How's your competition day look like? Do you do anything else?
A: It's really just eat sleep training repeat.
Q: What are your favorite holds?
A: Crimps and pinches.
Q: With how much you train, how do you not get burned out?
A: My coach helps me to take break and rest. Otherwise I won't stop.
Q: What's your weakness?
A: (Thought for 30 seconds) You really need to ask my coach. I can't think of any. :D . I used to be 'bad' at slab but i trained for over a year.
Q: Any funny story at competition?
A: Accidentally poured water into my chalk bag; sat on coffee before competition at olympics.
Q: You took some time off and came back glowing. Any special facials?
A: My coach and I together decided to take a break. I watched the competition in Korea from my couch. I felt a second that I also want to be there but then I thought I should take a break. It was really nice take a break from competition but i was still training really hard.
Q: What are some things about competition that you wish to see changes?
A: I wish to see more "old fashioned" routes. Currently, it's a lot about jumping and running on the wall.
Q: How do you like Speed Climbing?
A: Before I started training Speed, i thought it was not even climbing. :D. but since I started training Speed, I started to like it and it helped my moves to get more dynamic.